It has exceptional landscapes and age-old traditions mixed with innovative attitudes, knowledge, skill and incredible value for money. The Saint-Omer marshland β or marais audomarois β is a great example of working with the land.
The only continuously cultivated marshland in France, it was dug by monks back in the 17th century, and is an incredible network of canals km separating peaty lands, fertile spots to grow food.
Right up until the s the area had no roads, its lands connected only by water and its Flemish inhabitants mostly made up of market gardeners. Although the way of life has changed now β the guinguette danced its last slow waltz a few years ago and many of the houses are now occupied by holidaymakers who are keen on peace and a spot of boating β the area still produces six million white cauliflowers per year, as well as 50 other vegetables including leek, tomato, endive, watercress and artichoke, and its UNESCO-recognised nature reserve boasts an incredible 1, species of plants and animals.
The Hortillonnages of Amiens are a similar curiosity of cultivation. In the centre of the city, in the original river bed of the Somme, are hectares of floating gardens criss-crossed by waterways which, like the marais audomarois, benefit from abundant peaty soil.
Like its rural cousin, its numbers of gardeners have fallen recently; where there used to be hortillons , there are now only seven and the area is used for a mix of gardening, fishing, nature observation and rest. Being an area not front of mind for gastronomy in the eyes of even its nearest French, Belgian and British neighbours, Hauts-de-France has the weapon of surprise in its arsenal β the quality and innovation you find here are remarkable.
