And that's before the annual arts festival kicks off. For the ultimate Avignon experience, visit during July, when the festival and its offbeat fringe spinoff hits town. From dance and theatre to music and art, it's a joyous, city-wide celebration of all things creative. So, where better for a stroll? Meander through the medieval architecture and 18th-century mansions, taking in the imposing Palais des Papes , then head uphill to the Jardin des Doms for an ice cream and expansive views.
Once you've caught your breath, weave back to the river bank and the Pont d'Avignon although it's more pier than bridge these days , before making tracks to Rue des Teinturiers. Grab a table in the dappled shade and sip a sundowner beside a cooling millstream, complete with ancient waterwheels. The holy trinity of food in Provence is tomato, garlic and olives, and most local dishes will include at least two of them, if not all three. Add a warm baguette, some tangy goat's cheese and a bottle of local wine and you have yourself a picnic.
The Festival d'Avignon is one of the oldest and most famous theatre festivals in the world. Every July, it brings together some of the most exciting names in performing arts for a month of culture and creativity. Running alongside, the fringe Festival Off Avignon turns every square, corner and courtyard into a stage, with thousands of offbeat, pop-up performances. The soaring Palais des Papes provides a magnificent backdrop to proceedings and stages an impressive video projection celebrating the city's history.
Tapenade - A paste made with olives, garlic and anchovies, which comes in green and black versions. Ask to taste before you buy as recipes differ from one seller to another. It seats 24, people and regularly hosts concerts and even re-enactments of Roman games with chariot races and gladiators. Fresh, colourful, sun-soaked veg packs every dish with flavour and goodness, while olives, anchovies and garlic add an irresistible local accent.
And the grand finale? Mopping your plate with a hearty chunk of freshly baked baguette. If you're after something special that won't break the bank, L'Agape is a must. The inventive and beautifully presented plates breathe new life into bistro classics, covering everything from rabbit terrine and roasted quail, to beef tenderloin and a catch of the day.
