For a truer understanding of the cityβor ideas for where to stay in Romeβventure out to these six neighborhoods. Although most places tend to be casual, you can find everything from no-frills spots like Pizzeria ai Marmi βwhere neither the recipes nor the decor has changed in decadesβto gastronomic powerhouses like Pianostrada , where self-taught chef Paola Colucci puts innovative spins on traditional recipes.
For a classic Roman trattoria experience, line up at Da Enzo al 29 , which serves pasta staples like a killer cacio e pepe and amatriciana. For something more innovative, book a table at Eggs , which has a list of creative carbonara variations, including one made with shrimp, pistachios, and lemon zest. Sandwiched between the Colosseum and the Termini station and about 1. Cobblestone streets like the sloping Via Panisperna and Via del Boschetto are lined with shops, restaurants, and bars, such as Ai Tre Scalini , which serves local wine and cheese in addition to more substantial dishes like eggplant parmigiana and porchetta.
Not ready to leave? Check into Casa Monti , a new luxury boutique hotel with a maximalist, artsy design and an appealing rooftop bar. South of the centro storico and Monti is Testaccio, a neighborhood built on a hill of ancient terra-cotta amphorae.
The Mercato di Testaccio is a fine place to start; you can find everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to made-to-order sandwiches. At the street food spot Trapizzino , thick pizza dough is stuffed with typical Roman recipes like coda alla vaccinara oxtail stew and carciofi alla romana Roman-style artichokes.
For a classic old-school Roman meal, book a table at Flavio al Velavevodetto , which is built into Monte Testaccio and has the rough stone walls to prove it, or Checchino dal , which opened right across from the slaughterhouse more than a century ago and specializes in quinto quarto. A micro-neighborhood within the centro storico, Regola is just far enough off the tourist path to be considered an insider spot.
